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RADIO TODAY 13 DECEMBER 2009
 

BE MY GUEST by Fay Lewis

THE WINNER IN SOUTH AFRICA

In the category: BEST ENTERTAINING COOKBOOK

QUALIFIES FOR THE NEXT PRESTIGEOUS “GOURMAND BEST IN THE WORLD” COMPETITION

The winner in each country will compete against winners in the same category in other countries for The Best in the World. The results will be announced on Thursday February 11, 2010 at theatre Le 104 at the Paris Cookbook Fair.

www.cookbookfair.com

IRRESISTIBLE CASTLE OF THE SEA IN MOZAMBIQUE

An invitation to be whipped away to the powder-white beaches of Mozambique is always irresistible, especially when it arrives in the dead of winter.

When we flew in a few days later, there it was beneath us: all those blues with the added thrill of a deep-blue sky reflected in the sea below us.

The province of Inhambane sits on the coast in the southern part of Mozambique and about 500 kilometers north of Maputo.

The peninsula forms the northern entrance from the sea into the Inhambane estuary and is now home to some of the last remaining dugong in southern Mozambique. At its final point sits Castelo do Mar, our weekend getaway.

We arrived at the villa that looks a little like a benevolent colonial gentleman and ­ cocktail in hand - stood on the lawn in front of the villa and gaped at five dolphins that, as if on cue, put on a show for us.

Much of the cuisine of Mozambique is Portuguese-infused, or rather, the cuisine of Portugal successfully transplanted itself to a number of African countries, and especially here in southern Africa. The seemingly simple dishes of Portugal tempt with many layers of flavour, given an extra kick with Peri Peri.

To a degree this applies to Castelo do Mar too, but the take on cuisine is enormously creative. The curry served on the first night, for instance, had playful hints of sweet spices that create a clever balance to the heat of the chili.

On the next day’s agenda, walks along the beach, lots to eat, and a visit to nearby pansy island. If I were to describe my idea of heaven, this would be it.

The place is perched right on the beach and when the tide is high it nudges the bottom steps of the entrance. Pre-dawn – in the dead of night from my perspective - when the brave go out to do intrepid things like fish in the deep ocean, the tide is out and there is a sense of an otherworldly silence. All the better t o sleep in.

Towards the end of the afternoon, a gentle chug on a little motorboat to the swamps to gaze at the astonishing variety of birdlife and at sunset, a walk along the seemingly endless palm-fringed beach.

The villa is open to private groups only. It has six en-suite double bedrooms, a library with television upstairs, and a downstairs bar, dining room and games room.
The rate is $200 per person per night. If the group exceeds eight guests, a group rate of $1600 per night applies.
Phone +27 79 497 2652 (South Africa)
Email info@castelodomar.co.za
www.castelodomar.co.za

A JOURNEY OF TASTE

The owners of Mrs Simpson’s in Dullstroom have had a long culinary journey, and still – as I do – have no intention of stopping. So much so that their little restaurant – with tongue firmly in check, I’d say – has its walls decorated with glamorous – albeit well worn - shoes.

She was a controversial figure, Wallis Simpson. But, there is no doubt that she, the Duchess of Windsor, imagined herself to be supremely stylish. A woman of good taste, one might say. So smitten was Prince Edward, Duke of Windsor with the – gasp – twice-divorced American that he abdicated the throne of England to marry her. She was damned as superficial by many of their judgmental peers. However, while the couple became outcasts in the British royal family, style slaves adored her and to this day Mrs Simpson’s sartorial indulgence is celebrated.

The owners, Bryan Wolmarans and Stephen De Meyer have decorated the walls with Wallis Simpson’s shoes. Well, not her shoes, really, but look-alikes donated by the dears who have cleaned out their closets for the sake of this well-loved foodie couple’s décor. Jewellery, handbags and even press clippings and pictures of the woman fill in the gaps.

The menu appears to be not dissimilar to home cooking (albeit contemporary, with a Mrs Simpson-addition of sophistication). They have received accolades aplenty, including a ‘Top 100 Restaurants’ award from WINE magazine’s annual restaurant guide, Dine 2008. So it’s as much in the depth of flavour as in the delightful interpretations of traditional dishes that the pleasure lies. Presentation, too, is done with aplomb, but were it not for the class act in the kitchen, the rest of the experience would simply be superficial.

Fabulously fresh herby salads (sometimes with biltong, butternut and feta), mussel hot pot with a wine sauce for starters. My mains, open flame-grilled pork chops with apricot honey sauce. For my companion (actually my husband Graeme who is passionate about Indian food), the East Indian lamb neck curry. Clearly done from scratch, balancing and combining spices, I would have had order envy, weren’t if for my dish, which I hogged to the last scrap. The wine list honours the wide spectrum of demand, and the prices make it easy to order a second bottle.

Saturday late morning after brunch at Critchley Hackle, we meandered up the main road, managing to dodge most of the shops and galleries. Restaurants of varying taste and size, too abound, including the ever-popular Harry’s Pancakes which started in Graskop (also Mpumalanga) many years back.

We were lured into Wild about Whisky, an altogether civilized whisky bar with a not inconsiderable stock of Irish and Scotch whiskeys. Even the American version is treated with interest and respect.

They offer a range of whiskey ‘tours’ that has one sniffing, sipping and tippling six half-tots of a range of combinations. My tour, the Atlantic Crossing, compared the whiskeys on both sides of the ocean. The Connoisseurs tour had us tasting (never spitting) top-level Scottish and Irish gems while one of the owners told stories about the making and tasting of the heady range of whiskeys on offer. The place is one of the ‘Top 100 Whisky Bars in the World’ according to Whisky Magazine and quite rightly so. Pleasant, edifying chats with the three owners had us exit with a pleasant glow two hours later.

But back to Mrs Simpson’s, as we did for lunch on Sunday after a disappointing dinner at Critchley Hackle the night before. A ‘Greekish’ salad and kudu pie. Over-the-border prawns, all on the correct side of underdone, as they should be.

Taste enough for a weekend of excellent indulgence.

CONTACTS


Mrs Simpson’s
013 254 0088
www.mrssimpsons.co.za


Wild about Whisky
013 254 0066
www.wildaboutwhisky.co.za

THE GLENDRONACH
Revival - 15 Year Old
Renowned among many whisky enthusiasts around the world, this remarkable and full bodied malt is matured for a minimum of 15 years in the finest Oloroso sherry casks. Bottled at 46%, the GlenDronach Revival is non chill filtered and of natural colour. A truly excellent single malt.

Tasting Notes
Expression Revival - 15 Year Old
Appearance Deep gold with a lovely mahogany heart.
Nose Incredible concentration of aromas. Treacle, toffee and chocolate orange.
Palate A very dynamic and full bodied dram for its age. Chewy with coffee, chocolate and treacle scones.
Conclusions A veritable feast to enliven the senses.


THE GLENDRONACH
Allardice - 18 Year Old
The famous GlenDronach 18 year old, now renamed Allardice, is the third expression in the GlenDronach core range. This exceptional single sherried malt is non chill filtered and of natural colour. Matured in the finest Spanish Oloroso sherry casks and bottled at 46%, this sublime richly sherried malt is truly unforgettable.

Tasting Notes
Expression Allardice - 18 Year Old
Appearance Bright deep gold with a tawny centre.
Nose Sweet aromatics of fudge and muscovado sugar. Fruit compote and glacier morello cherries provide added complexity.
Palate Rich, dark and seductive. Remarkable flavours of stewed fruits and all-spice marry together with classical aged Oloroso and toasted walnut bread and chocolate orange.
Conclusions Tremendously complex and long.