Pomodoro, Morningside, Johannesburg.

In a relatively small world, where we all circle and skinner about the same or overlapping packs of chefs and restaurant, Pomoro is a welcome newcomer.

Not that there’s much to skinner about in Stefano Mas, only accolades, judging by the full-house happy diners at this light and airy restaurant at the back of the Codfather Centre.

Says owner Stefano Mas, “Pomodoro Ristorante is borne out of my passion for food, entertaining and sharing experiences and emotions” – and it shows.

The look at Pomodoro is airy and light, with touches of warmth from the coloured glasses on the white-on-white tables, a russet fireplace with chimney and a saffron wall and pizza oven behind a sweeping counter.

Stefano says, “you dress to please others and you eat to please yourself”. The food pleased me immensely and, in fact, so did the dressing-up of the place.

Stylish interior decorator Marina Mas designed Pomodoro with a light touch and sophisticated Italian influences - a welcome respite from the relentless chequered tablecloths of eateries littering the landscape of ersatz Mediterrnean eateries. The look at Pomodoro is airy, with touches of warmth from the coloured glasses on the white-on-white tables, a russet fireplace with chimney and a saffron wall and pizza oven behind a sweeping counter.

Says Mas, “since I was in matric, owning a restaurant was one of my dreams”. Already then he used to organize dinner parties at his father’s home in Mexico where he grew up.

According to Mas his father (Spanish) and mother (from Florence in Italy) are both excellent and daring cooks, “and I was exposed to all sorts of different tastes from Italy, Spain, France and Mexico”.

The food at Pomodoro is Italian but with some noticeable Spanish and French intonations. I would not call it a fusion since we are particular about keeping the originality and purity of each recipe. I would rather say that the dishes from different origins complement each other in a meal, offer tasty options and complete the holistic eating experience.

The menu is packed with the fervour of flavour-packed pomodori, with noticeable Spanish and French tones. There are Tapas-style starters, pastas prepared using true Italian recipes and cooking techniques (“you won’t find pasta Alfredo!”). Our Garganelli (with porcini, saffron and whiskey) was swooningly delicious.

The pastas are prepared using true Italian recipes and cooking techniques (simple recipes sauces, pasta al dente and not reclining in slabs of sauce).

For summer, added pastas and pizzas with a more Tapas menu which will make for a different experience at lunch time. The idea is to be able to experience many different tastes and textures in a short time and without feeling bloated.

 

Thin-crust pizzas offer interesting toppings – and thankfully, not mounds of it – with authentic Mozzarella.

We also loved the deeply-flavoured Carpaccio di struzzo (thinly sliced ostrich fillet with rcola and a balsamico vinaigrette); I was wild about the Rucola e pomodori (warm pan fried cherry tomatoes tossed in a balsamico and rosemary dressing, served on a bed of rucola and topped with Mozzarella). Next time ‘round I might try Cose di Rana (imported frogs’ legs in a lemon and pesto sauce).

Meat and seafood dishes are from a combination of Italian, French and Spanish recipes, with veal, beef fillet and steak tartare offered on the small but interesting list.

There is the typical veal, served grilled, as well as French-style green pepper beef fillet and authentic steak tartare. The Filetto di pesce alla catalana (line fish fillet with olive tapenade and pesto sauce) is a Spanish dish which uses the same ingredients they would in Italy.

I found the classic Filetto di pesce alla Catalana (line fish with olive tapenade, chorizo and pesto sauce) delicious, albeit that to my mind the olive taste was a little too strong for the delicate Kingklip. The Involtini di Pollo (chicken roulade with sundried tomato, pancetta and parmesan cheese, with butter and sage) was worth another visit.

Unavoidable desserts are Crepes Suzette, or al Cioccolato (although I don’t have a sweet tooth, this had my vote for the French Valhrona chocolate used), Feuillete con Frutti di Bosco (puff pastry filled with Chiboust cream, wild berries and a chocolate coulis), chocolate soufflé and gelati.

The wine list when I visited was brief, though good, at prices that make the restaurant even more attractive. The list will expand come summer, with addition French, Italian and Spanish finds. And, another reason for rejoicing in a city that notoriously doesn’t offer good wine by the glass, here most ones are.

Stefano and Marin Mas use, as much as possible, organic vegetables. Another plus, in my book. This plae is a bit of skinner worth spreading.

Average three course meal: R120 – R150

Rating:
Food: Exciting
Winelist: Unusual and yummy
Ambience: Chic
Service: No ripples
Value: Money happily spent

The Codfather Village, First Avenue Corner Rivonia road, Morningside.
Phone: (011) 803 6554.

Entrance and sufficient parking at the back of the centre. Open Tuesdays to Saturday lunch and dinner. Sunday lunch. Friday no closing after lunch.