Zafferano

REIGN UNABATED

Given the accolades of the predecessor of chef Berno du Plessis, it must have been challenging to accept the job of chef at what had been a regular ‘top tenner’.

The chic Zafferano has long been the private hangout and meeting place of Johnnic media luminaries like the Sunday Times’s Gwen Gill and David Bullard. And you’ll easily spot the Business Day top brass – they’re the ones in earnest conversation with the designer-brothers and sisters who now sit at the top of government and industry.

The look of Zafferano (Italian for saffron) is a crossover between elegant African and stylish European with hues of the savannah of Africa. The large windows cleverly disguise the hubbub of Oxford Street outside, while allowing in slants of gentle sunlight.

Experienced Jean-Pierre Siegenthaler (famous for his restaurant Le Chablis some years back) oversees all aspects of the hotel’s cuisine, including Michael Fridjhon’s annual – and fabulous – wine experience.

Keen as mustard, Boland-born du Plessis has risen to the challenge with great aplomb and cooks as if he were born in the Italian midlands. Having said that, according to Du Plessis they “try to keep a balance between our Italian ingredients and also at the same time add flair”.

Du Plessis says the love of food started at the age of seven. “I love to eat good food, and experiment a lot; I love seeking out new ideas”.

The ever-changing menu remains modern Italian, infused with du Plessis’s unique take on what is hot on the culinary scene at present. One of my favourites is the Bruschetta Mediterranea (toasted chiabatta, topped with marinated vegetables on a carpet of smoked provolone). Fish and meat dishes includes Pesce al burro di Caviale (grilled line fish with creamolata, mashed potatoes and caviar buerre blanc) and frequently perfectly done steaks.

Desserts are of equal fabulousness. For instance, the last time I was there a guest at my table had torta al limone (a potentially prize winning lemon tart with marinated forest berries and mascarpone cream). I mention this one especially because this dish often appears on menus of other restaurants, a tasteless usurper.

I looked forward to the new chef at Zafferano with great trepidation. And I’m happy to say, it was unfounded. May the accolades continue.

Park Hyatt Hotel, Oxford road, Rosebank, Johannesburg. Phone (011) 280-1234.