Varandas at the Inanda Club, Sandton

What drove me away from the Inanda Club in the smart northern suburbs of Johannesburg some years back was not so much the fuddy-duddy mindset that incorporated the exclusion of women from the pub. What I remember mostly is a monotonous turnover of chefs that offered, at best, all that the English celebrated in food – not cuisine – in their home country at the time.

Perhaps it is the fact that Varandas has taken over Mole Cottage, the thatched Hathaway-type cottage in the verdant ground of the club that makes me think that the new century has finally dawned Inanda. Members and not-haves alike now pre-book to indulge in the superlative cuisine, a good - and affordable - wine list, professional attitude and general sense of bonhomie that is breathing life and spice into the old bones there.

Charming Mozambique-born Pedro Silva and his drop-dead charming wife, Charlmein (who runs front of house), used to serve their Mozambican-infused Portuguese cuisine to the folks at the Wanderers Club before the fire that decimated the classic old clubhouse.

Although the Verandas décor still shows hangovers from its previous incarnations - chintz and paintings and prints from precious to passable - the beauty of the place lies in the fact that rooms are available for private functions or high-level mealtime meetings. There is also a fabulous fireplace for cosy winter dinners and wide doors and windows onto a friendly outdoor area for al fresco summers. Ancient trees and vast stretches of lawn provide a perfect setting for tables to be moved to for celebrations, as the willing Silvas are often wont to do.

The Inanda house committee proved their mettle by inviting this dynamic duo to move to Mole Cottage. But then, there was no risk. The Silvas not only have 20 years’ experience to bring to the table, but also boast their trump card in Chef Antonio Boavida. It’s appropriate that Antonio’s surname translates as ‘good life’, because his master touch is clearly a celebration of fresh ingredients and the nuances of exciting herbs and spices.

The foundation of Antonio’s formidable curriculum vitae is bona fide training in Portugal. When he returned to Mozambique, he was to be personal chef to the then president of the country, Samora Machel.

Machel’s untimely demise brought Boavida to South Africa where he bestowed his culinary genius on the likes of the then legendary French Connection in Rosebank.

Pedro Silva grew up in a home where the family would sit around the table to eat and drink the best of what was on offer. This is possibly what created his life’s dictum of a love of good, honest home-style cooking, and a resultant intense dislike of what he calls designer cuisine.

He says that the special edge of their food is a result of the no short cuts approach. No pre-bought cans of anything, everything fresh. And that includes all the natural stocks that they use. The magical Portuguese trilogy of white wine, fresh fish stock and paprika, are always to hand here to add yet another dimension to a dish.

Although the menu is infused with all that is Portuguese, a touch of fusion in the form of prawn tempura teriyaki adds additional interest and diversity, as does the Arabian rack of lamb.

One of my favourites is the starter of Chilean salmon, chilled and served in a lime, olive oil and coriander dressing (R37), although I’ve the starter of succulent calamari tubes, lightly grilled in a finger licking lemon butter sauce with a touch of garlic (R24,95) is as irresistible.

The prize starter, though, is their Caldo Verde (the classic Portuguese potato-based green soup that consists of cabbage, olive oil, Chourico Assado and a touch of garlic (R24,95).

Salads include an avocado and prawn variety, served on a bed of fresh mixed greens with an avocado vinaigrette.

Mains of course feature prawns in abundance, from medium to giants, Prawns Mozambique A National (baked in bay leaves, garlic, lemon butter, Portuguese spices and beer), prawn curry. Other seafood, blackened kingklip, crayfish thermidor, crab curry
Cataplana (seafood casserole) and Espetada Do Mar Mista

For poultry, trinchado, peri peri, lemon and herb; meats, rump fillet, Portuguese steak (with white wine, garlic cream sauce and topped with a fried egg) and of course Espetada

Do not even think about stopping before dessert. Although I found the crust a trifle dense, I’m being picky. The meltingly sexy lemon meringue pie is a triumph.

The Silvas’ dedication to providing more than just a good plate of food extends to staff that are informed, intelligent, professional, never overbearing and always there when you need them. In other words, people who view serving in a restaurant as an honourable profession.

Silvas love of wine means, he says, that he doesn’t collect, he drinks. So every single wine on the list has been tasted by the Silvas, and enjoyed.

What I enjoy is that there are no inordinate mark-ups. Says Silva, “It takes two minutes to go through the process of opening a bottle of wine, tasting and pouring. I’d rather the diners benefit from two bottles of wine.

Although that changes often, their house wine at the moment is Gekko Ridge. Availability depends on what bargains he’s able to find. This also applies to the rest of the list, which boasts popular quaffables s well as what he calls ‘Pedro’s Bin’ - KWV Rust Vrede ’95 or Simonsig ‘98 Pinotage at R60. Sparkling examples, Gosset Brut Excellence NV R and Freixenet Cordon Negro Brut.

Regulars at Verandas include everyone from the diplomatic corps, corporate diners as well as the Inanda new blood and me and thee of the street.

Silva says that taste and quality are paramount. It shows in what they’re doing at this family-run place with its very personal touch.

Average three course meal: R95 – R100

Rating:
Food: 4 ½
Winelist: 4
Ambience: 4
Service: 4 ½
Value: 5

The Inanda Club, 1 Forest Road, Inanda, Sandton;
Phone: (011) 883 0588; booking advisable.
Open Tuesday to Friday lunch and dinner. Saturday dinner, Sunday lunch.

Stylish Portuguese, with a touch of fusion.