Mandolino’s

In an area suffused with pumping concept restaurants, Mandolino’s is a yummy newcomer. Set in tranquil gardens, the restaurant is divided into private dining rooms infused with chef-patron Pizzol’s warm personality.

And if the architecture is somewhat ersatz, in this case faux is fabulous. Like the traditional Mom and Pop places of Pizzol’s home country, the chef-patron, as well as his food, is authentic.

I arrived with a family group of 12 people exactly a week after Pizzol opened his doors. The restaurant was full of other faithful followers and nevertheless, the flow never faltered.

Space prevents me from raving about individual dishes, but here are a few gems: a starter of grilled calamari tubes filled with mushroom, onion and capers in olive oil, garlic, white wine and a dash of chili, with wild rice. My goddesses reside in the Rutata (rocket, baby potatoes and garlic salad), ideal for lunch.

Pastas include the ravioli (filled with mushrooms and crushed almonds and served with olive oil and roasted garlic cloves and fresh chilli sauce. Per Lei (pasta of choice served in a coconut cream, crispy onion and avocado sauce, Il Pazzo (in a cream, Grappa and mixed nut sauce). Perfectly moist and flavourful risottos, classic meat dishes as well as fish and bird (marinated quail grilled and served in a white wine, garlic, chili and crushed fennel seed sauce).

If I really were to look for niggles, it would be the for the most part, expensive wine list.

Pizzol tells me that he intends to expand his menu to include seasonal blackboard specials. The wine list, too, will expand to such specials.

After all, he’s a restaurateur in the classic sense of the word, on his way to becoming one of the true legends of our culinary landscape.

Sandton Town & Country Hotel, 31 Mulbarton Road, Beverley, Fourways.
Phone (011) 467 7725.