Cruise Café, Knysna

Knysna has always had a lukewarm reputation as a gastronomic destination, but now it’s cooking, what with the award-winning Ile de Pain and also now, a rapidly rising star - Zachary’s at the top-level Pezula Estate (which we’ll review in the next issue). In addition, there are the two runners-up of the recent Van Loveren Best Restaurant Sensation contest during the Knysna Oyster Festival, Pembreys and Parkes Manor.

I’ve recently had the pleasure of visiting Knysna twice in quick succession, once prior to the Oyster Festival, when I went to oyster heaven to do a reccie for a newspaper article. On this specific occasion, I was wowed by the ambience, the quality and innovation of the menu at Cruise Café – the winner of the aforesaid Van Loveren competition - and by the superlative service. But more about this later.

The weekend of the Oyster Festival, I attended a Gala Dinner at Cruise Café. It was hosted by one of BBC Food’s celebrity chefs Ross Burden, who had been brought in to offer further incentive to us local plebs to attend the Festival. A function such as this one always is a challenge, no matter the size of the establishment and I must say, owner Jerome Simonis and his team passed with flying colours, even though Burden’s performance was disappointing.

Incentive, then, for me to visit Cruise Café a third time, and also chat to Jerome Simonis, who juxtaposed Burden by being focused and professional.

The restaurant sits on the banks of the Knysna lagoon near the Waterfront Complex, with panoramic views of the Knysna Heads through the double volume glass doors.

The place started out as a coffee shop an ferry terminus for the look-alike Missippi steamer, the Featherbed and in fact Jerome’s team provides Mediterranean-style meals for folks going out on the boat.

Design of the restaurant, also courtesy Jerome. “I’m a sailor,” says Jerome, so to have decided on a nautical look was a logical process. To me it’s a bit like a New York loft superimposed on Knysna, with lots of blond wood and clever sepia-coloured alcoves and blown-up nautical photographs. There’s also a wonderfully cozy fireplace for the cold-and-wet patches of weather.

When the weather’s indescribably perfect, like the weekend of the Oyster Festival, cocktails and meals on the deck are a must.

 So, back to the first visit and dinner. We started with marrowbones with baked whole heads of garlic, simple yet perfectly robust. An indulgent, sexy winter dish.

As we have a habit of sharing and passing fork-fulls across the table, husband, once he’s had his delectably fresh grilled Kingklip with vegetables and roast potatoes, starts to stare at my bird across the table. It’s a cleverly designed winter dish, with the steam on the

insides of the windows and the building gale outside. This is the quail wrapped in bacon, with sparks of ginger and old fashioned plops of raisons among the richness of the Breugel-coloured gravy.

For dessert, a delicious chocolate dessert platter. Although I thought the chili sorbet was a trick, designed to be clever rather than respecting the fact that it didn’t create a balance.

The overall design of the menu boasts modern concepts with interesting ideas and flavours. For instance, the winning menu for the Van Loveren competition started with canapés of aubergine oyster balls, blue cheese goujeres and Vietnamese spring rolls. To follow, cream fo cauliflower with duck liver and truffle oil.  A breather of salad of quail, pomegranate and chicory, with sumac dressing. A main course of linefish in banana leaf with tahini-dressed seaweed, maki roll of prawns and wasabi drizzle. Dessert was a clever pear and chocolate plate.

Jerome says he’s going to have to take the bull by the horns by catering for local demand to put more meat on the menu.

My first visit – dinner – was blessed with service that was the definitively superlative - not obsequious, but attentive and informed, with even a brief chat when appropriate. However, when I returned for lunch, the service was dismal, bordering on dead. Consistency – training, certainly – is needed.

The wine list is catholic, with a bonus of many quaffable ones available by the glass. Ports. Dessert wines and cigars.  What I liked about the wine list, too, is that Jerome, who is no sloth where wines are concerned, have written notes for the layperson to show off a little knowledge about food and wine matching afterwards.

This is a youngster with great potential, especially if it drops the odd pretentious touch – which simply makes it impertinent.

By Gwynne Conlyn

Average three course meal: R120.

Rating:
Food: An inspired teenager with great potential
Winelist: Reliable and catholic
Ambience: Modern nautical and nice
Service: Out of step
Value: Definitely a worthy stop

Featherbed Ferry Terminus, Knysna. Tel: (044) 382 1693; booking advisable.
Open Monday – Saturday breakfast, lunch and dinner. Sunday, breakfast and lunch.