Coco Fathi

In many ways Coco Fathi is like his namesake, Chanel. There is an almost impalpable grace and charm, and his style is a perfect example of the maxim, less is more.

Good looks, that sadly outdated mode of behaviour that is called manners and gentle speech all sit in tandem with royal blood and a large helping of talent.

Clever me, then, to agree with Coco Fathi and Anna Trapido - one of the country’s most talented food writers - to co-author a book on the heroic journey of African ingredients and food across the continent and to the Diaspora (To the Banqueting House – African cuisine, an epic journey). While writing, designing and testing the recipes and going through the daunting process of photography, Coco also set up his new restaurant.

Welcomed by many, from fans from his previous restaurant in Greenside, to people from around the world who know this Burundian/Belgian born of royalty, the cuisine at Sel et Poivre is a reflection of the man himself.

Although he says he prefers uncomplicated flavours, the book contains recipes from across Africa that are filled to capacity with layered flavours. The name of the restaurant – French for salt and pepper - Coco says, reflects his approach. “No complicated conglomerates of herbs and spices; let the ingredients speak for themselves”.

Shortly after the book had gone off to hatch, I popped in or lunch.

My starter – a butternut cappuccino with a hint of cinnamon had more orange than I’m used to, but it created a fabulous counterbalance to the butternut. The typically French sautéed veal kidneys in a creamy Dijon sauce presented themselves perfectly pink in the middle, with melt in the mouth texture.

Because of work pressure I sent in an emissary with superlative culinary knowledge for a second opinion. He reported thus: ‘Starter, parmesan croquettes with watercress salad and raspberry vinaigrette. Very good flavour combination. Parmesan flavoursome but not overwelming. Plating could have been prettier (rather large croquettes) but technique and skill with flavour couldn’t be faulted. The croquettes were so delicious that there was nothing left on the plate when we were finished’.

Other starters on Coco’s Specials list when I was there were marinated Trout fillet in Mango and Chili on a rocket salad, and asparagus and Parma ham tartlet with Black Truffles. Mains offered a good selection with, among others, beef fillet with black pepper and a Pinotage sauce and rolled Sole fillet with Prawns served with a Gewürztraminer sauce, served with brown rice.

My spy had Duck in Mango sauce with duchesse potato rolled in brioche crumbs. ‘Duck tender and perfectly rare; brioche crumbs inspired. A skilled and interesting meal’, was the final verdict.

My take on the desserts are that they are superlative. My choice of the day was Goat’s milk cheese ‘brule’ perfumed with rosemary, and chocolate ‘Moelleux’ with Blood Orange sauce.

Every last Friday of the month has Coco offering what he calls gastronomic evenings.

“I often use recipes from my and Anna’s book for these evenings. For instance, last week I offered as a starter, Tamarind-gratinated Luderitz oysters from Namibia (from the chapter, ‘Pastures new: cattle, kinship and kraals’. This was followed by Crab gratine comme a assigni (a dish from the Ivory Coast) with a dish from the Diaspora for dessert: Mississippi mud pie with banana Foster-style salad, banana sorbet and oven-dried banana ring for dessert.

“I love to showcase the sensational wines of South Africa I have fallen in love with so that people who come to my restaurant can discover them, too. The gastronomic evenings then have the winemaker talk about his wine and how he feels about it. “And it showcases what I’m able to do, as well,” smiles Coco.

And he loves champagne. “Now I can show that African food is often fabulous and can be paired with something as sensational as Laurent Perrier.

An experience, then, in the somewhat formal surroundings at the peaceful suburban hotel that is a true reflection of who the man is.

Average three course meal: R150

Rating:
Food: Royalty
Winelist: A good match
Ambience: Quiet
Service: No ripples
Value: Good

137 West Road South, Morningside.

Phone (011) 290-0900.

Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.